Pregnancy & Skin Care

Pregnancy, in regards to skin care, is something one only thinks about once they become pregnant. I wanted to devote this week to all you ladies out there that have begun your baby journey and those that are considering pregnancy.
 Skin care during this time becomes a bit more confusing. What is safe to use..why is my skin behaving this way?..and what can I do to the ever changing skin that I am experiencing?  There is much debate whether chemical peels are safe during pregnancy. As a precaution all physician would recommend that you fore go any peels during this time. I tend to agree. However, a great alternative to the classic peels are enzymes, which are made from fruit sources. Vitamin C is a perfect exfoliator to use during pregnancy. It comes in varying strengths from your facialist and I recommend Vitamin C serums for at home use, as well. Look for no more than 10% for home use within a serum or cream form. Some with sensitive skin may find 10% too harsh so it's safe to say that a 5% formulation would be best for all skin types. When it comes to Vitamin C more is not necessary better. The delivery system is key to how it will respond to the skin. If the serum is more "watery" it means that the strength will be delivered faster but may cause irritation. Serums that have more slip will slowly work into the skin and will gently deliver the product without irritation. The benefits of Vitamin C are far reaching.  Firstly, it's an antioxidant so it helps combat free radicals from further damaging healthy skin cells. Secondly, it has repairitive qualities that minimize pigmentation and accelerates healing of blemishes. And lastly, Vitamin C is a nourishing ingredient that helps restore the moisture balance in your skin. In other words, if you have oily skin or dry skin it will regulate the oils so the skin is at a more natural state. You will see these benefits only after a few weeks of consistent use.
Steam, extractions, dermaplaning, microdermabrasion are all safe during pregnancy, as well. Products to avoid would be Retin-A, Chemical peels(glycolic, Salycilic, Jessner..etc), Benzoyl peroxide, and any other harsh chemical that could penetrate your bloodstream. Always advise with your doctor before any treatments in question.
Be prepared for the unexpected and I urge you to be patient with the changes that are happening. I too have been pregnant and although it's a beautiful event in your life; your body and skin will be changing. Enjoy this gift!

Keene Cosmetics
Smart Skin Care

Teen Skin

I get asked all the time about teen skin and how to handle the flair ups. Teens are up against a few factors that cause these breakouts. Firstly, hormones will cause the skin to do some wacky things. Even moms in their thirties deal with these issues! In my opinion consistency and simplicity is the key in any long term skin care regimen. With that said, establishing good hygiene habits is also critical to great results. Teens are coming from a place of ease when hormones strike. They once could go weeks without washing their face only to wake on the eve of their thirteenth birthday with a raging pimple. What happened?? Hormones will increase the activity of the sebaceous gland and can cause overnight breakouts due to clogged pores. As parents, we need to encourage nightly washing from an early age. A mild cleanser that wicks away dirt is appropriate. As they get older have them use a cleanser with a mild acid such as glycolic or salicylic. Always avoid the eye area when using an acid in the cleanser. I try to avoid recommending toners because of the high alcohol content. These tend to dry the skin. The skin then registers that it's  too dry and starts to produce more oil. Hence a vicious cycle begins. Witch Hazel is a calming alternative toner if you feel the need to use one. If a blemish does occur use a low dosage of benzoyl peroxide. Use sparingly and only on the site of the blemish. No more then 3 days in a row. Benzoyl peroxide will dry the site but can also cause burns on the healthy skin tissue if used improperly. Also, be a proponent of sunscreen! A broad spectrum sunscreen that will protect and lightly moisturize the skin is key! Many formulation are non clogging and will assure protection for hours. If breakouts persist I always recommend visiting a dermatologist to talk about options. A word to the wise however, think long and hard before putting your child on strong medication such as Accutane. These types of drugs can have long terms, negative effects. In the meantime take advantage of your facialist to assist your child with monthly facials and education about proper use of products. Sometimes hearing information from a professional source can go a long way in improving the daily habits of your teen.

Keene Cosmetics-Smart Skin Care

Skin Lightening with Hyrdroquinone

   I am continuing the series on skin lightening by talking about one of the most popular lightening products on the market, hydroquinone.
Hydroquinone is a topical cream that helps reverse the signs of sun damage and melasma through interrupting the receptors in the skin that causes the melanocytes to discolor. Hydroquinone inhibits tyrosinase which is responsible for the melanin darkening.
   Hydroquinone can be found in smaller doses blended with moisturizers at department stores. These by law cannot be any more than 2% in strength.  However, the most effective strength is 4% through prescription only. You can purchase 4% strength at medspas and physician offices.
     I would be remiss to not talk about some controversy that has surrounded hydroquinone in the past decade.  Some studies have claimed that there is a carcinogen connection to the use of hydroquinone. In studies lab rats were given high doses (up to 10%) of the ingredient orally and topically. Of course the application is only topical in humans and the FDA has only approved up to 4% here in the United States. Countries in Africa and Asia are known to regularly use up to 10% topical formulations.
As with anything you will want to ask your professional provider if you are a good candidate for the product.
    Check back next week for more information about skin care,  product trends and everything beauty.

Dark spots be gone!

One of the main concerns for the modern girl is; How do I deal with the dark pigmentation on my skin?
It ages us and can be a lengthy process to overturn.

There are three main reasons people have dark spots and pigmentation on their skin:
1) Sun damage 2) Hormonal shifts 3) External/Internal blemish on the skin.

Let me explain.

Sun damage is caused by over exposure to the UVA/UVB rays of the sun. It can occur over time or quickly if too much exposure has occurred such as boating, skiing, tanning beds, or beaching it!
The suns rays penetrate the dermal layer where damage develops overtime. The melanocytes have a protective switch that causes us to tan but also causes sun damage. i.e pigmentation.
As we age the depth of the damage increases and more of the dark spots become obvious.

Hormonal shifts due to birth control, pregnancy, menopause, and medications cause an internal change in the melanocytes and how they relate to the skin. The latter is usual due to the hypersensitivity to sun that causes the skin to be more prone to the external effects of sun exposure. Introduction of higher estrogen can increase the sensitivity to the sun, as well.

External/Internal damage is usually seen in darker skin types when a blemish is present. The skins' response is to protect the skin by pigmenting the area of the blemish. This can take many months to fade after the fact. Picking at the blemish will only cause more damage to the surface tissue. It can be a frustrating by-product of having a breakout.

The Fix:
Fortunately there is an arsenal of remedies to this pesky problem. Through professional services and high grade products these issues can be addressed.

Laser services provide quick relief with minimal to substantial downtime. Look for ablative(skin removal) or non-ablative(non skin removal). Ablative will incur significant downtime and non ablative may produce redness and some peeling but far easier to bounce back from. Intense pulse Light (IPL) is under the laser guise but uses scattered light to breakup pigmentation at about 550 nanometers. This is a fantastic way to target surface pigmentation in a short period of time.
Chemical peels are available in varying strength and target varying depths dependent on the formulation. I recommend lactic and mandelic or for a stronger effect use TCA or Jessner.
Hydroquinone products are a skin lightening topical agent that fades the pigmentation over time. I recommend HQ in a 2-4%  strength. This product usually coincides with laser or chemical peel services.
Retin-A is a great way to lighten skin and get the benefits of skin tightening and removal of fine lines. Available in .025, .05. &.1%

Now is the time to reverse the sun damage from years past with these tried and true techniques. the intensity of the sun is at it's weakest during the winter months.

Thank you for reading and as always would love to hear feedback and answer any of your skin care questions.

Keene Cosmetics-Smart Skin Care

New Year Skin

     Merry Christmas to all! If I am like the average person out there I am looking forward to pushing through the holidays and starting the new year.
     With each new year we find ourselves in the midst of winter weather. For many, the drier weather makes for better skin. Skin is always adapting to its' environment and changes need to be made for each season. I recommend having a Winter and a Summer regimen that will handle the needs of each seasonal change.
     I live in Florida so we get about 7 days of cold weather (Lol).  However, the skin does change during this time of the year even in warmer climates. Think about how our bodies tend to hibernate when it's cold. Treat this season as the perfect time to fix all the those pesky sun spots, acne scars, and enlarged pores. Without a tan it's obvious how much work our skin needs. Seek out Retin-A, retinols, professional chemical peels, derma planning, and laser treatments. Now IS the time to take advantage to repair your skin so you are one hot cookie once Spring hits.
     Topical Retin-A(Vitamin A) should be started in a low dosage such as .025%-.05%. Move up to .1% and complete by the end of springtime. Most professional products will last about three months. These are prescription products that many Med-spas are equipped to prescribe. I recommend applying three-four nights per week. Do not apply to the upper eyelids and be aware that the neck tissue may only be able to tolerate twice a week.  Do not use with your normal night cream. On the off nights you can use your night cream as usual. The combination may dilute the effects of the Retin-A.
     Now IS the time for laser hair removal and resurfacing services. Look for services such as IPL(Intense Pulse Light), Fraxel, laser hair removal, and electrolysis. Remember your skin is less tan and the recovery time is easier due to an indoor lifestyle that comes with the season.
     Vitamin C and other antioxidants are in vogue all year round. Do not skimp on theses at home products. With Vitamin C, however, a higher percentage does not always mean better. Keep it in the 5-10% range so that the skin is using it as a healing and protective product oppose to an exfoliator.
     I have begun this blog to answer everyday questions that many of my clients have approached me with over the years. Each week I will talk about relevant topics about skin care and bust any myths that might confusion the consumer. Please feel free to comment and ask questions.

Keene Cosmetics-Smart Skin Care.
Thanks for reading and Happy New Year!